Catalan Bay

Catalan Bay sits on the eastern face of the Rock, tucked below the massive water catchments that have supplied Gibraltar with fresh water for centuries. Getting here requires either a short drive or a walk through the Rock's tunnel system, and that slight effort is part of what makes it feel so different from the western side of Gibraltar. This is a village, not a tourist quarter, and it has maintained that identity with some stubbornness even as the rest of the territory has developed rapidly around it. The village takes its name from Genoese fishermen who settled here in the eighteenth century, though the "Catalan" reference is a matter of some historical debate. What is not debatable is the character of the place. The houses are painted in faded pastels, the narrow lanes run between walls hung with fishing nets and flower pots, and the beach at the end of the main street is a proper working beach where fishing boats still moor. It is, by any measure, one of the most photographed corners of Gibraltar. The beach itself is decent by Gibraltar standards. It is not the longest stretch of sand in the region, but the water is clear, the orientation gives it good afternoon sun, and the backdrop of the Rock rising behind the village makes for an unusual setting. A handful of restaurants and beach bars line the seafront, and these tend to be more relaxed and slightly better value than the equivalent establishments on the western side of the territory. The annual Catalan Bay Fiesta, held in August, is a genuine community event rather than a tourist spectacle. Locals come back from wherever they have scattered across the world, the square fills with food stalls and live music, and the whole village feels alive in a way that is hard to manufacture. If you happen to be in Gibraltar during the fiesta, it is worth making the trip east. The walk along the eastern face of the Rock from Catalan Bay is also one of Gibraltar's quieter pleasures, particularly in the early morning when the light is soft and the bay is still.